Bathroom tiles do more work than almost any other surface in the home. They handle daily moisture, foot traffic, cleaning chemicals, and constant temperature shifts, all while being the first thing anyone notices when they walk in. Getting the choice right means thinking about material first, then size and layout, then finish. In that order.
Why material is the decision that matters most
Porcelain and ceramic are the two materials that cover the majority of bathroom floors and walls, and they're worth separating carefully. Porcelain is fired at a higher temperature and absorbs almost no water, which matters on a wet floor. Ceramic is slightly softer, easier to cut, and works well on walls where waterproofing is less critical. Both are durable. Porcelain is harder to chip but harder to drill without the right bit.
Natural stone, particularly marble and travertine, creates a look that porcelain hasn't fully replicated. But stone is porous. It needs sealing on installation and resealing every year or two, and it reacts badly to acidic cleaners. Limestone bathrooms look extraordinary and require real maintenance commitment. Most owners don't mind once they know going in.
Encaustic cement tiles are the third option that comes up in design conversations. They're not glazed, so they breathe differently, and the patterns are embedded rather than printed. They work on bathroom floors but need sealing before grouting as well as after. They're fragile during installation compared to fired tiles, so factor in a higher wastage rate when ordering.
How size and format affect the feel of the space
Large-format tiles, anything 600mm x 600mm and above, reduce grout line frequency and make a small bathroom feel less busy. That's the genuine functional reason designers reach for them in compact spaces. The trade-off is the substrate. Large tiles need a perfectly flat floor or wall, and achieving that in an older home takes more preparation than most renovation budgets assume.
Small tiles, including the classic 75mm x 75mm mosaic, have more grout lines, which means more grip underfoot and easier cutting around curves and fixtures. They've been used on bathroom floors for over a century because the format is genuinely practical, not just decorative. Penny rounds, hexagons, and elongated subway tiles all sit in the small-to-medium range and share that practical advantage.
Subway tiles, typically 75mm x 150mm or 100mm x 200mm, became ubiquitous in the 2010s. They're still a sound choice in 2026 because the format is flexible and the price point is accessible. The design variable is the lay pattern. Stacked vertically, they read as modern. Laid in a classic brick offset, they're quieter and more traditional.
Finish: matte, polished, and everything between
Polished or glossy tiles reflect light and can make a bathroom feel larger. They also show water spots, soap residue, and footprints constantly. In a guest bathroom used occasionally, that's manageable. In a family bathroom used by multiple people every morning, it becomes a cleaning burden worth thinking through.
Matte finishes hide marks better and provide more grip when wet, which matters on the floor. The downside is that some matte tiles trap soap scum in the surface texture and need more scrubbing to stay clean. Rectified matte porcelain in a mid-range tone is the most forgiving surface in a busy family bathroom.
Honed stone sits between the two: less reflective than polished marble but smoother than raw stone. It shows wet footprints clearly when the floor dries, which some owners find attractive and others find annoying. There's no neutral answer. Visit a showroom with wet hands before committing.
Layout and grout: the decisions people underestimate
The grout colour shifts the whole character of a tiled surface. Dark grout with light tiles draws the grid forward and makes the pattern a feature. Light grout with light tiles reads as a smooth field with minimal joints. Neither is wrong. But choosing the tile and leaving the grout colour to the installer is how bathrooms end up looking slightly off in a way the owner can't name.
Layout direction on the floor is worth considering before the tile is ordered. Running a rectangular tile diagonally adds a tile-cutting cost and increases wastage by roughly 10 to 15 percent. Running the same tile on a straight grid keeps costs down. Running it lengthways down a narrow bathroom makes the room feel longer. These are decisions for the planning stage, not the installation day.
One practical rule: order 10 percent more tile than the measured area for a straight lay, 15 percent for a diagonal or pattern lay. Dye lots change between batches, and adding tiles from a new batch six months after installation is rarely invisible.
What to ask a tile supplier before you buy
A reputable tile supplier will tell you the slip resistance rating (the R-rating for floor tiles, where R10 is the minimum recommended for wet areas), the water absorption rate for any tile going on a wet floor, and whether the tile is rectified. Rectified tiles are ground to a precise size after firing, which lets you lay them with a tighter grout joint. Unrectified tiles have slight size variation baked into the manufacturing process, so the grout joint needs to accommodate it.
Ask also about the tile's PEI rating if it's going on the floor. The Tile Council of North America defines five wear classes; a bathroom floor needs at least PEI 3. Wall tiles don't carry a PEI rating because they don't bear foot traffic, so don't be alarmed if a wall tile has no rating listed.
Bathroom tiles are a long-term decision. Most people renovate a bathroom once every 15 to 20 years, which means the tile you pick today will outlast several phones, two or three cars, and possibly a mortgage. Spending the time to get material, size, and finish right before the installer arrives is the cheapest upgrade you can make.